Food news: Curing Robbie Krawcyzk

 


Rob Krawcyzk in Chestnut
Rob Krawcyzk in Chestnut
Crispy duck salad at The Ivy Dublin
‘Boire un canon’
Fresh bread baked the old-fashioned way

Robbie Krawcyzk (pictured) is the chef behind one of 2018’s most talked-about restaurant openings: Chestnut in Ballydehob. Robbie grew up in West Cork, so there’s something of a return of the prodigal to his new venture.

Robbie’s paternal grandparents left Poland around the time that Stalin was making his presence felt, and ended up in Shepherd’s Bush, where Robbie’s father, Frank, was raised. When Frank met Anne Kenefick, from Cork city, they settled in Schull, where the couple ran a seasonal summer restaurant, The Barn, from their home.

“It was a pop-up, really,” says Robbie, “they were holding dinner parties and charging people to come.” Frank began to experiment with making sausages and salamis for the restaurant, his customers liked them, and almost inadvertently a hobby turned into a year-round business – more sustainable than a restaurant that was open for only two months a year.

These days Frank consults for others starting to make their own charcuterie and, says his son, has been a huge help in the early months of Chestnut.

“Ireland doesn’t have a huge tradition of smoking and curing,” says Robbie, “as there is too much humidity. It’s a bigger thing in countries such as Spain and Italy where the air is dryer; if meat is too wet it goes off.”

Now that technology can be used to control humidity, a barrier has been removed. “People love cured meats when they go on holiday,” says Robbie, “and they are getting more interested in making them and eating them at home in Ireland.”

Robbie is already making ham fat which he preserves in salt for use in the kitchen at Chestnut, and plans to start making coppa, different flavours of salami, bacons and pancetta in the coming months – under Frank’s guidance.

This month, Rob will host Black Bush Cured: a hands-on whiskey and charcuterie masterclass at Drury Buildings in Dublin, on July 25, in collaboration with Bushmills Irish Whiskey. The interactive event will see him teaching his students how to use the whiskey to cure and smoke their own meat.

The masterclass is part of the #BlackBushStories campaign – a collaborative event series celebrating the stories and crafts of independent, spirited and extraordinary talent across Ireland.

To register for ‘Black Bush Cured’ and to read more about Rob’s story, visit blackbushstories.com.

BROOK LODGE BREAD

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Fresh bread baked the old-fashioned way

 

At Brook Lodge in Macreddin learn to make bread the old-fashioned way… and bring home live yeast so that you can continue at home. A one night B&B package including a bread-making masterclass and lunch in the Waterside Lounge costs from €165pps. Contact [email protected]

LOOSE CANON


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‘Boire un canon’

 

Loose Canon – ‘boire un canon’ is a French colloquialism for having a drink – at 29 Drury Street is a new natural wine and cheese bar/shop from the lovely people behind Meet Me in the Morning. Go for cheese toasties at lunchtime, stay for cheese and Irish charcuterie in the evenings… and wine.

THE IVY ARRIVES IN DUBLIN


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Crispy duck salad at The Ivy Dublin

 

The Dublin branch of London theatre restaurant, The Ivy, opens on Dawson Street this week. Expect the glitter monkeys and the just plain curious to turn up in their droves to check out the famous shepherds pie and crispy duck salad (above). Book at theivydublin.ie.

Weekend Magazine

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